Back on Track

Matthew 18:20 For where two or three gather in my name, there am I with them.

Day 12 — 13.96 miles — May 9, Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Day 9 started early again at 7:00.  Our feet are still sore so we planned for another short day.   Compeed Blister Cushions and toe sleeves are wonderful. We are not the only ones with sore feet.  All along The Way, people were stopped with their boots off tending to their feet.  At this stage of the walk, everyone has covered over 100 miles.   When we arrived in Azofra to eat, we decided to cancel our hostel reservation in Ciruena and push on to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.  This decision changed the distance for today from 9 miles to 13 miles. We would be back on track to walk 13 to 15 miles per day.  Our feet were feeling better.  There were still hills to go up and down however they were not as steep.  

The landscape continues to be breathtaking.  It is varying shades of green.  The breeze was gentle and the sun was warm.  We took a break just before entering Ciruena.  There was a food truck that offered refreshments for donations only.  A shaded area with picnic tables and a water fountain were available for pilgrims to use.  JoAnn who we met in Orisson walked into the picnic area.  We had eaten dinner with her in Los Arcos.  JoAnn and I were talking about Boise.  A man at the fountain spoke up and said he was from Boise.  We had crossed paths numerous times in the last few days but had no reason to make any connection.  His first name is Marshall which is my maiden name.  

We also have continued to bump into Andreas (Laughing Man as we have nick named him).  He is German but lives in Ireland.  We probably saw him five times today.  

Arriving early in Santo Domingo de la Calzada enabled us to visit the magnificent cathedral. Domingo Garcia was born in 1019.  He desired to become a monk however the monastery at San Milan would not accept an illiterate person.   He turned his efforts to aiding pilgrims on their journeys.  He built a pilgrim hospital and a church which evolved into the Cathedral.  The original church was consecrated in the 12th century.  It houses the tomb of Domingo Garcia (Saint Domingo) and a chicken coop with a live rooster and hen.

Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn in the town on the way to Santiago. The innkeeper’s daughter had her eyes on the son but he denied her advances.  Angered by his rebuff, she slipped a silver goblet in his pack and reported that he had stolen it.  He was arrested and hanged.  The parents had gone on to Santiago but when they returned, they found their son hanging on the gallows but still miraculously alive.  They rushed to the sheriff’s house and asked for their son to be released.  The sheriff retorted that their son was no more alive than the chicken he was about to eat, whereupon the chicken stood up on the dish and crowed loudly. The miracle was not lost on the sheriff who rushed to the gallows and cut down the son.  He was given a full pardon.  Today, a rooster and a hen actually live in a special pen in the cathedral. 

Cross #17 was left in the Cathedral. There are more pictures of the Cathedral below.

Tomorrow we go to Belorado.  Buen Camino.  Sharon and Ron

3 thoughts on “Back on Track

  1. I love the tale of the chicken, and remember them clucking loudly outside our window.
    Your pace is good and I love reading your blog every night.
    Buen Camino!


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